East of Ankara is day trip country. The lack of tourist orientated development in this region means that facilities are poor and accommodation is pricey. There are however, a few things to see out here in the Anatolian hinterland. The hittite city sites scattered around Bogazkale include the one time capital Hattusas, the temples of Yazlikaya and the smaller site of Alacahoyuk.

• Sungurlu : This small town is reached from Ankara via the Samsun highway. It's on the way to the hittite sites and, if you're without your own transport, it's a possible bus destination (3 hours). You can pick up a dolmus to Bogazkale from here or grab a taxi if you're feeling flush. Accommodation is available but you wont be spoiled for choice.

• Amasya : A strange mix of old and new, Amasya is noted for it's architectural delights and the Pontic tombs carved into the cliffs above the town. It's a big garrison town and you'll find young soldiers hanging out in the cafes and teahouses. It can be reached by bus from Ankara (4 hours) and is certainly worth a day's walking about. It's also a possible base for exploring the hittite sites mentioned above.

• Tokat : 90 minutes south of Amasya, Tokat is worth a couple of hours if you like old buildings and stuff. Good examples of Selcuk, Armenian and Ottoman architecture can be covered on foot.

• Sivas : One (well, more than one) time Selcuk capital and home to the Frig empire (oh yes) and knocked about a bit by various conquerors, Sivas has a lot for the Selcuk enthusiast but not much for anyone else.

Most people heading north from Ankara are either bound for the Black Sea coast, after a bit of skiing or going to look at the architecture of Safranbolu. The scenery of the area is pretty, mountains, forests, rivers and the like and the lack of development makes it a fairly laid back place to be. Not much in the way of tourist infrastructure outside that at Safranbolu means that it's not the easiest area of Turkey to travel in but it can be quite rewarding.

• Safranbolu : Very nice, a twisty and misleading road takes you through nasty smelly Karabuk and on into old Safranbolu's period piece Ottoman town centre. A day spent here is a step back in time in a way that's hard to duplicate anywhere else in Turkey. Souvenir, antique and plain junk shops abound and the half timbered houses for which the town is famous are charming. Accommodation can be tricky and you'll probably end up in the new town if you're planning on staying the night.

• Kastamonu : A place to stop on the way to somewhere else, Kastamonu has a hilltop castle with a nice view, a scattering of Ottoman houses and a mosque or two but nothing you can't find in better shape elsewhere.

• Kizilcihamam : Small, tatty but quiet town on the old Istanbul road, about an hour north of the city. Kizilcihamam has thermal springs and a nice resort hotel. Located at one end of the Soguksu national park which is alos quite pleasant. Busable from Ankara.

• Bolu : Notable for the scariest bits of road on the Ankara - Istanbul bus route, Bolu is a fairly grim place. If you find yourself here in the Autumn the forests are worth looking at and the nearby lakes can be very nice for a weekend getaway. Closest urban centre to the regions ski and lake resorts.

• Skiing : If you're in Ankara in the winter and fancy a bit of cheap (by European standards) skiing then you'll probably end up at Kartalkaya. You wont find much here to test the experienced skier but it's a lot of fun for everyone else and checking out an alternative attitude to piste etiquette can be amusing.

There's not a lot here really. Without your own transport your probably restricted to Gordion, an hour or so from Ankara and home to a tomb complex including one associated with the legendary king Midas. If you have the time and the means (or if you get thrown off a bus) you may find yourself in Eskisehir buying Meerschaum pipes but we'll assume that your enterprising enough to get around a bit and tell you what else is out there

• Sivrihisari : An uninspiring setting for the fine, Selcuk Ulu Camii mosque and the most convenient (which isn't saying much) place from which to visit Pessinus, a phrygian temple site. About 150km from Ankara and then about 15km to Pessinus. Accommodation and instant coffee probably problematic.

• Seyitgazi : About 200 km from Ankara and home to a tekke (dervish monastery) complex adjoining the turbe (tomb) of Sehit Battal Gazi, an Arab military man who died about 1100 years ago during the siege of Afyon. Not much else going down really. Does serve as an access point for the scores of Phrygian sites that can be found in the vicinity.
  Foremost of these is Midas Sehri. Spooky rock formations warn you that you are approaching a stumpy hill heavily carved and forming the foundation of the ruined city planted on the top.

• Eskisehir : You won't find a lot to keep you here once you've bought a pipe. It's a transport hub (250 km West of Ankara) so you may pass through and spend a few hours pottering about.

• Kutahaya : The name is synonymous with ceramics, especially tiles, and you'll find them all over the place. There's an eclectic mix of things to look at here including the museum, housed in a rather fine 14th century medresse (religious school) and if you're on your way to or from Ankara via the town you could have fun for most of the day.

Not much going on until you get to Cappadocia, about 4 hours by bus. There's Tuz Golu (Salt Lake) which is like... a really big lake full of salt. Not much else to see from the road and nowhere you'ld want to stop for longer than about 30 seconds.