The further south along the Aegean coast you go the higher the level of development you will encounter. The Northern Aegean is more of a holiday destination for Turks than for foreign tourists. To the south the climate improves, the season lengthens, the water temperature increases and it is here that many package tourists choose to take their week or two in the sun. Strangely enough, for a region that depends on tourism to the extent that the Southern Aegean has come to do, the majority of beaches aren't that great. There's a lot here to see and plenty of sunshine but for gorgeous, unspoiled beaches you'd probably be better looking further east towards the Mediterranean resorts.

Main access point is Izmir, although Bodrum has a nearby airport well served in the summer and ideal if you're planning on getting straight on a boat. Bus access to the area is good from all over Turkey with regular intercity routes from Istanbul and Ankara to all towns in the region. Denizli and Mugla are both transport hubs and you can pick up services to all over the country. The slow but steady train from Ankara makes Izmir an overnight proposition if you're not in a hurry and the roads serving Izmir are some of the best in the country. You can take a ferry to Cesme from Venice in the summer although this seems quite tricky to organise in advance.

Highlights of this coast include Assos, a charming and secluded little village with stunning views of Lesbos and it's own ruined city. Access to Assos is usually through Canakkale, an unexciting port at the narrowest point of the Dardanelles. Canakkale's population rockets every year as ANZAC day approaches and tourists flock there to see the battlefields of Gallipoli. Cesme also offers a pleasant destination, particularly popular with well to do Turks and conveniently close to Izmir, it makes a great place to spend a week. Access to beaches is good and accommodation doesn't have to be expensive. Izmir itself is a busy regional capital. Good shops and facilities but not, perhaps, the ideal holiday destination.

In terms of ancient sites there's quite a lot here. Many of the key Turkish sites of antiquity including Ephesus, Miletus, Priene, Pergamon, Aphrodisius and Pamukkale are accessible from any of the coastal towns. That gives you a choice of Bodrum, Kusadasi, Altinkum, Guzelcami and a score of others all competing for your tourist dollar. If you are travelling around you'll probably end up in Selcuk, a good base to explore Ephesus and neighbouring sites from.

Places to go Assos - A very nice place if you fancy something tranquil and, well, romantic really. Bodrum - If you're prepared to party it's not a bad place to go, watch for our upcoming pages on the blue voyage - boat trips along the Aegean coast. Bodrum's a good place to begin one from. Marmaris - Most coastal towns in the south of Turkey aspire to be Marmaris, its capacious harbour a popular destination and wintering location for yachts. It's not cheap but it does have good access to beaches and some interesting sites.

New to HiTiT - History of Ephesus: an interesting illustrated essay contributed by a HiTiT visitor. Do you have something to say about Turkey? Let us know