It's not the Mediterranean. The climate here is cooler and the summer season shorter. What this region does have is an almost complete freedom from development. This does mean that the infrastructure is weak - the spectacular coastal roads may give you cause for concern as a driver, but you will feel that you've been somewhere a little different and there's a sense of time having slowed down a little, if not stood still completely. The area has some beautiful alpine scenery and, if you're prepared to rough it, this can make for great camping and hiking. The further East you go the rougher it gets and out towards Trabzon (about half an inch to the right of the map) you can feel that you've left Europe behind. People here are friendly and open and, curiously enough, the region is both ridiculed as being backward and praised for almost the same reasons in contemporary Turkish culture.

If you're in Ankara then the run up to Amasra, taking in the gorgeous Ottoman architecture of Safranbolu on the way, makes for a great weekend getaway. Amasra is now a sleepy fishing town but was once Amasris, named after its Queen regent. The queen, daughter of the Persian Darius III, promoted Greek culture and helped to found the city that bore her name and followed the model of Ionic Greek foundations elsewhere. Amastris was murdered by her sons and there is little left now of her city. What does remain is charming and makes for a pleasant hour or two strolling around the town and it's fortified promontory. There are several good, cheap fish restaurants and you can move on along the coast to the East following a twisty coast road affording spectacular views.

The road to Sinop will take you through a couple of coastal towns, some of which are beginning to capitalise on their beaches and offer accommodation and tourist related services. Sinop itself offers facilities and access to beaches as well as the legacy of its 7000 years as a Black Sea Port.

Samsun, the next major town heading East is, by all accounts, fairly grim. I haven't been there so I don't really know. I'd be happy if anyone has an opinion to share.

Trabzon is about as far East as most people get along this coast. Famous for it Sumela Monastery (which, although undeniably spectacular is sadly neglected) it was once capital of the Comnenus dynasty of Byzantium. Legendary tales of the magnificence and decadence of the Comneni palace are hard to reconcile with what you'll find upon arrival today. Ironically enough the most interesting buildings remaining in this city which was once famous for the variety of vices practiced by its rulers are all of a religious nature. It does have some interesting churches, including the other Haghia Sophia and you could amuse yourself here for a day or two. You can fly direct to Trabzon, which is the way most people get here, it's far enough away from everywhere by bus to put all but the hardiest of travelers off.